One of the most popular souvenirs that foreigners buy in Russia, the most recognizable attribute of all Hollywood film about Russia, and also a useful winter headdress. What are we talking about? A hat with earflaps, which will definitely warm you in severe frosts, the ushanka.
Ушанка or шапка-ушанка is a traditional Russian fur hat. It has lapels at the level of the ears, which can be tied on the chin to protect the ears and neck from the cold, or they can be fixed on the back of the head. The west usually knows it simply as shapka (which actually means “hat” in Russian), and its name «ушанка» comes from the Russian word «уши» (ears).
Expensive ushankas are completely made of sheepskin or rabbit fur. There are even variants made of fox fur. But there are also cheaper hats made of inexpensive faux fur or wool pile. Sometimes even leather and fabric are added. These variations are then called «на рыбьем меху» (ironically meaning “out of fish fur”), since the material does not belong to any real animal and is more for decorating that for keeping you warm. About 70-80% of our body heat goes out of the head. Therefore, a hat with earflaps is ideal for the winter months in Russia. In some regions, the temperature drops to -40…-60 °C.
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Over the history of its existence, the ushanka has turned from a peasant headdress into one of the main symbols of Russia. In Soviet times, an earflap made of valuable fur was a luxury item, indicating the status of a person.
One version says that the prototype of the ushanka was the Mongolian malakhai, which was a sheepskin hat with wide lapels. According to another version, the prototype of the earflaps was a tsibaka hat (a kind of leather helmet with long “ears” made of fur), which was worn by the Finno-Ugric peoples.
The modern type ushankas appeared in Russia in the XX century. A hat very similar to the modern ushanka, appeared in 1918-1919 during the Russian Civil War. At the suggestion of the commander of the White Army, Admiral Alexander Kolchak, the ushanka became part of the army uniform. The White Army lost the war, but the ushanka later became widely used in the Soviet Union. Since 1940, it has become part of the uniform in the army and militia (modern police). Ushankas were also popular among Soviet leaders. So, in the 1960s and 1970s Leonid Brezhnev began to wear ushankas made out of reindeer fur, and soon all members of the Soviet government adopted the fashion. Later, Brezhnev also introduced the fashion for mink fur ushankas.
However, the ushanka was not only part of the uniform or fashion of high-ranking officials, but also integrated into everyday Russian life and, thanks to its warmth, was very popular, especially in the northern regions. In the cult Soviet film «Ирония судьбы, или С легким паром», both male protagonists wear ushankas, but one looks cheap and made of low-quality fur, and the other is very presentable.
The ushanka hat is one of the first things you think about when you talk about Russia. For a stereotypical Russian character from a Hollywood movie, it’s a matter of honor to wear an ushanka, especially if it’s a KGB agent. Think of Arnold Schwarzenegger in the movie “Red Heat” or the astronaut Lev Andropov from “Armageddon”. Thanks to such a widespread image, the ushanka has become a recognizable Russian symbol, like a matryoshka or a balalaika, and, as a result, a popular souvenir. And of course, if you are going to have a party in the Soviet style, you can’t do it without a coules of ushankas!
But the ushanka is not just a souvenir and a stereotype, it is still popular today. You can find many designer ushankas that are worn by both men and women. Ushankas are chosen even by foreign celebrities, for example, Rihanna or Kim Kardashian. And fashion designers from all over the world offer their own versions of how to wear and combine outfits with this indispensable winter accessory. The English fashion designer Paul Smith has included ushankas in emerald and plum shades in his clothing collection for the autumn-winter 2021 season. Ukrainian designer Ruslan Baginsky presented a variety of ushankas in his 2020 collection.
Dress warmly and take care of your head — you need it to continue learning Russian and get acquainted with the interesting traditions of this country.
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